Re-fitting
(installing the engine)
The installation is quite straight forward. For best access remove the wings and front rad panel (and rad) from the Landy. Remove front wheels and place on axle stands.

So you'll end-up with something like this. Lots of room to work. Remove front prop shaft and the exhaust system. As mentioned, now is a good time to clean & tidy-up the engine bay. You might want to fit some sound deadening panels on the various flat areas on the bulkhead. They will make a difference latter.
To
save messing about, and unless you are good at frabricating & welding, buy
the engine mounts from Dudleigh.
They are not cheap, but will save a lot of
time, they are well made and fit.
To go with these you will need 2 Land
Rover diesel engine mounting rubbers (part no. NRC2052). Space at the back of
the engine to the bulkhead is tight. It's a good idea to remove the gearbox
mounting brackets and ovalise (about ¼" to ½" is enough) the
rubber mounting holes to allow the engine/gearbox to move forward, otherwise
the gearbox mounting holes will not line up. It might not be a bad idea to
replace the geaqrbox mounting rubbers with new ones. However, after running
mine for a while, I think the diesel mounts might be too rigid. This engine is
much lighter than the Land Rover petrol unit and good petrol mounts should be
OK.
The engine can now be lifted into place, connected to the gearbox and
all the mounting nuts tightened. Very easy and quick to say, but in reality it
can be a swine of a job. Help is most likely needed and you will almost
certainly have to jiggle the engine until it slides down the gearbox input
shaft and then you can get the nuts on the conversion plate studs. It can help
to loosen the gearbox mounting bolts and/or use a jack under the gearbox to
alter its angle of tilt, to suit. When the engine is in place tighten all the
nuts. Don't forget to fit a braided earthing strap from the conversion plate to
chassis. Now is a good time to route the starter & batery cables.
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