Ancillaries
1) Exhaust connection
The Montego has a downpipe that
incorporates a ball joint, which is very useful in orientating the new exhaust
system. But it is more than likely that the donor exhaust downpipe is so
corroded that it is unusable. Only use the exhaust down pipe if it is in very
good condition, else buy new (£42). You will also need a length of ERW
flexi exhaust 2¼" tube and some clamps. It is better to use the
2¼" Montego system rather than restrict the exhaust gases with the
smaller Land Rover system. The engine will perform better with the size of
exhaust it came with! The car is fitted with two silencers, either one of which
will do the job. Combined with a length of flexible exhaust pipe the
permutations are endless! Just make sure it is well tucked up and that you use
several clamps to hold it in place.
Here you see a Rimmer Bros S/S Series sports box, modified for side exit, connected to 2¼" flexi exhaust tube.
2) Throttle cable
Somehow you have to convert the old rod linkage to cable operation for the
fuel injection pump lever. It would be possible to graft on part of the Montego
cable to the linkage where the old Land Rover links attached to the carb. A new
Montego cable will cost about £15. A better option is to convert to full
cable operation. After many years the Land Rover rod system develops a lot of
wear in all the joints and results in a not very responsive throttle.
This is what I did. Attach a 3" bell crank to the pedal rod, where it enters the engine bay at the top of the inboard driver's side footwell. A bracket holding the outer throttle cable can be made up from scrap box section steel. This can be mounted under the old oil-bath air filter chassis bracket. It can be bolted at first to allow for adjustment, then welded on later, if preferred. Make sure that the cable fully extends the fuel injection pump lever at full throttle.
Whilst this picture is not of a Prima installation, the cable assembly is effectively the same.
I have since altered the throttle cable on mine. I still use the complete Montego cable. It now connects directly to the throttle pedal. The plastic end stop fits intot he top of the footwell above the pedal. I welded an angle braket onto the pedal and the cable attaches directly to the pedal now. I also carry a spare cable on the vehicle.
3) Radiator hoses
Hopefully you have
notes/photos of the setup in the Montego. The Haynes manual is somewhat lacking
in this area. Here is a schematic of the water pump connections, looking at the
front of the pump from the radiator.
The main thing to note is that the Montego water pump looks a little more complicated than normal pumps. (It also costs more!) It has a pass-through pipe cast into the top of the pump. No water is pumped and there is no connection at all here to the water pump, it's just a way of passing water from one side of the engine to the other without using another rubber hose!. The pumping circulation is done through the bottom pair of connectors. Now you can use the top pass-through to connect up as I first did, or you can render the pass-through redundant and leave it unconnected. Some people use the tube to act as a cable guide for the engine temp/cold start cables. Keeps them neat !
The yellow arrows show the flow of water round the system.
Keep the old Land Rover top & bottom hoses & the Montego bottom hose. I used the later 2A/S3 rad, this won't make a difference to the connections. Do make sure that the radiator is up to the job and that all hoses & clips are sound. The numbers below refer to the red numbers in the picture.
1) This is the looping 'U' shaped original Land Rover bottom hose connected to a short length (15") of 1½" OD s/s tube.
2) This connects to a new S3 top hose. The spare end connects to a short length of 1½" s/s tube which fits into a section of the Montego bottom hose. You need the end with the side 'T' piece for the heater feed.
3) The 't' section. The heater inlet line goes via 4 to the heater matrix.
4) Heater inlet feed.
5) Return from heater. This replaces the metal pipe that ran along side the rocket box on the Montego.
6) Just before the heater return enters the thermostat housing, I plumbed in a 15mm copper 'T' with the old Land Rover temperature sensor soldered into the side arm. This ensures that the temperature gauge read correctly. You will have to provide a separate earthing point for the sensor as it will not be directly connected to the engine block. (The Montego sensor can be left in place, unconnected.) The top hose from the thermostat housing to the water pump is the original Montego one, as the feed from the pump into the cylinder head - hidden from view in this picture.
7) New top hose assembly, using a new S3 top hose from the water pump outlet connected to the original Land Rover top hose via a short length of 1½" OD s/s tube. If you don't use the pass-through tube, you connect 6 directly to 7. You still need 2 S3 top hoses and a stainless connector tube. You can discard the Motego tube that was on 6.
For connection
from water pump to radiator top you will need two Series 3 top hoses (90 degree
bends) and a section of 1½" OD tube to butt join them together. The
bottom hose run is a little more involved. Keep the original bottom hose
(Series 3 'U' shaped), to this connect a 15" length of 1½" OD tube to
pass across the chassis. To this connect another Series 3 top hose. At the
spare end you will need another section of 1½" OD tube to butt join to a
section of the original Montego bottom hose. You want the bit with a 'T' rubber
welded on for the heater return pipe.
The outlet pipe to the heater consists
of a 90 degree rubber bend connected to a metal tube running down the RH side
of the rocker cover. This pipe will probably be corroded anyway! Replace with
rubber heating hose.
PLEASE NOTE: IT IS VITAL THAT THE COOLING SYSTEM IS IN GOOD CONDITION. USE ONLY A 50:50 MIX OF ANTIFREEZE. THE CYLINDER HEAD IS VERY PRONE TO CORROSION AND THIS WILL LEAD TO A HEAD GASKET FAILURE. I know because this happened to me July 2007. A new Perkins gasket will cost you £35 and is well worth it. Cheaper ones may not be up to the job.
Temperature Gauge
You will need to use the old temp sensor if you want the gauge to work accurately. The Montego sensor will under read the real temperature. The two temp sensors are not interchangeable. You could tap out the hole on the Montego thermostat housing, but space is very tight and there is not much metal to work with, I don't recommend this. I used a copper 'T' piece in the heater hose. I soldered the original Land Rover temp sensor into the side arm. I also soldered on a wire to earth the 'T' to the engine block. This works fine, but the temp reading is a little lower than the actual temp in the thermostat housing. In any event the engine seems to run a few degrees hotter than the original Land Rover petrol engine. That said, even in the hot summer (2003) the Kenlowe fan has not cut in, even in traffic queues. You can use the old Montego electric fan for cooling, if you don't have a Kenlowe setup. For this you would be best advised to purchase a new Capillary Thermostat Switch (R.S. Components) and fit the sensor into the bottom hose. Your choice whether to have a manual overide switch. Not so necessary if you mount the fan on the front of the rad. But in any event wire it so that the fan will swich on when the main electrics are switched off. This is so that when the engine is switched off, the fan can cut in after a few moments when heat soak from the engine gets through to the coolant.
*Latest news is that a 300TDi (green top) sensor will fit and work correctly with a late 2A temp gauge (voltage stabilised instruments). The part number is AMR1425 and will cost around £8 inc. post & vat. This means that you will get a more accurate temp reading as the sensor is right where it should be.
4) Oil
Cooler
The Montego has a
small water cooled/heated oil cooler, this should be retained as the turbo does
heat the oil up. There is just enough length on the original hoses to mount the
cooler up on the top front engine mounting (it's redundant in the Land Rover
installation). I have used an old 13 row oil cooler from one of my Minis. This
increases the overall oil capacity (1 pint), which can't be bad. Latter I'm
going to fit an oil thermostat to enable the engine to warm up faster and so
that the oil is not over cooled. This will cost around £50.
Merlin Motor
Sport can provide these parts, they are not essential to the conversion,
but worth considering if you intend to tweak the engine later on and/or do a
lot of towing. This works well, the oil cooler sits right at the front of the
rad, behind the grille. It has increased overall oil pressure readings by about
5 psi.
5) Fuel Supply
The fuel filter unit can be mounted
on the Landy bulkhead, where the coil used to fit. You will need to drill 2
holes 2 1/16" apart. Then make a braket like this...
The bar is a 3" length of 20 x 1.6 mm rolled steel bar from B&Q. The bolts are 1.25" long, 3/8" UNF (24tpi). The heads can be welded (or glued) to the plate. The bracket is passed up inside the bulkead and manoeuvered into position so the bolts poke out through the bulkhead, to give a captive mounting for the fuel filter.
After removing the Montego engine you should be left with
lots of bits of rubber fuel pipe and lengths of metal tubing. You need to
connect the end of the old fuel pump feed pipe to the new lift pump to the
right of the cam shaft cover. Be aware of the proximity of the hot turbo and
exhaust and route the pipe away from these. A better job can be done using
5/16" OD copper tube and fitting a pipe directly from the tank to the new lift
pump. From here you need a short length of pipe to the fuel filter and another
length to connect up to the feed to the fuel injection pump. The fuel
return/drain line needs to be connected to the tank.
If you have not got
the diesel tank fuel sender then you will have to 'T' in the fuel return line.
Best place, so that you don't have to chop the tank around is to 'T' into the
air vent pipe that goes back into the main filler neck (SWB, don't know for
LWB, but there must be a similar arrangement). Best advice is to remove the
mesh around the fuel pick-up pipe in the tank. It's too restrictive. A diesel
fuel sender might be found at shows or auto-jumbles, it has a low fuel level
warning lamp.
6) Air Filter
The original Montego air filter box
can be used, the mounting plate can be fastened to the inside of the LH wing
close to the radiator. Rain water downpipe brackets and 90 degree bends
(B&Q) can be used to connect up to the turbo inlet. The inlet can be left
high in the engine bay or more flexi pipe can be used to connect to a raised
snorkel set-up of your choice. S[ace between the turbo outlet and the
bulkhead/inner RH wing is restricted. The flexiduct that was in the Montego
will have seen better days. The inner wall can collapse and choke the engine
causing the turbo to fail. (Guess how I know!) Best to use some 50mm plastic
drain pipe & bends (from B&Q) to make a non-crushable turbo inlet
duct.
If the intention is to fit an intercooler then there will be more space as the turbo to inlet manifold pipe is replaced with a 90 degree bend to lead to the intercooler.
7) Vacuum pump - brake servo
There is a vacuum pump driven off the cam shaft to power a brake servo unit. If you do not have servo assisted brakes then the inlet to the pump needs to be properly sealed off.
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